Monday, February 27, 2006

The Same Country?

Even before I got off the train, I started noticing differences between South Indians (SIs) and Gujaratis. I'm sure the list will grow as I spend more time here, but here's a preliminary list:

1. Skin color. SIs are known for their darker skin for a reason. Because it is in fact darker!

2. Facial features. SIs have much harsher features, with thinner faces and highly pronounced cheekbones. Men also tend to wear the same, bushy moustache. Gujaratis have more rounded faces, and it isn't necessary to have the moustache (thankfully!).

3. Vada. Yes, vada, or vadai. In the South, they are big and look like donuts. In Hyderabad, people tried to sell these on the train. Once we entered Gujarat, the vada became small and round, like donut holes.

4. Language. Gujus don't really speak all that much English, and it's barely written anywhere. However, on the plus side, I can read about half of all Gujarati, and I can understand some.

5. Temple Priorities. I just happened to arrive into Gujarat on Shivratri, one of the holiest days for Shaivites. I noticed one key difference in priorities in both my temple experiences. In the South, it's ALL about getting a kum kum (or tikka), you know, the mark on your forehead. People rush all around for a chance at the red, yellow, or ash that soon marks their forehead, neck, and hair part. Here, it's all about the prasad, the food blessed by the god. In the South, you'd typically have to pay for the prasad; here, it's free. Neither of the temples I've visited have even had kanku or kum kum available. Amazing.

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