Thursday, March 09, 2006

More thoughts...continuing where I left off

Okay, much to my annoyance, my first time at this went up in smoke when my IE crashed. Here we go again.

Differences between the South and Gujarat:
1. Lungis. This skirt-like sarong-like piece of cloth, constantly adjusted and played with and shortened and readjusted, worn by men in the South is virtually non-existent here. While I have yet to visit any villages, and while I haven't yet traveled to Saurastra and Kuchchh (which both tend to be more traditional), the pictures I have seen seem to indicate that lungis aren't in the wardrobe. Thankfully.

2. Affectionate Men. In the South, you see affection coming out the wazoo between men. Here, I've barely seen it. It just really isn't so common. Sure, some men drape their arms over their friends' shoulders, and very very occasionally you'll see some hand-holding. But it's really not as common and pervasive as it is in the South. Not that this is good or bad. But the difference is really noticeable for those people already not used to seeing open affection between men.

3. Kanku. In the South, and particularly in Tamil Nadu, nothing says "belongingness" more than wearing a loud and massive and sometimes disorderly kum kum smeared across your forehead all day. You can pick from red powder, yellow powder or paste, orange powder, or the ever classic ash. And in any one temple, you have so many locations where the kum kum can be found: Before entering the inner sanctum, after darshan, in cups around the inner temple, or even smeared on gods. Pushing and shoving and forcing general chaos seem imperative to get your daily dose of kum kum. Hell, you can even steal it from the gods, as many people do, by scraping old powder off the statues. Then, it's a badge of honor worn all day. Not so here. I only occasionally see kanku powder on someone's forehead. When I do, it's usually applied in a very small amount. Many temples don't even really offer kanku powder. People don't wear it as a badge of honor (except for women who place red powder in their hair part); perhaps spirituality is more important.

4. Rikshawala Shirts. In the South, riksha drivers are required to wear a uniform consisting of an ugly khaki tan shirt or t-shirt. Most drivers wear the shirt over something else, and actually remove it while on break. Here, I haven't seen these shirts. Rikshawalas can wear whatever they want. However, I haven't really looked hard at this issue while in Ahmedabad, so we'll have to see if this holds up.

5. Smoking. I've been in Gujarat for almost two weeks now, and I've seen maybe five people smoking. That's it. In the South, almost every man smokes a cigarette or a bidi. It's been suggested to me that Gujarati's most be more intellegent and educated. I doubt it. Malayalis (people from Kerala) are well educated, and they light up like no one else. So, what is it that's promoted this change? I think there's something in the Gujarati culture and norms that makes it more flexible to change, while different norms cement the South Indians in their traditional ways. But, of course, this is just a guess. Still, it's nice not to see and breath in the smoke...we get enough from the rikshas already.


Things Indians Did Right:
1. Water Pouches. These little pouches hold cold, filtered water. You can get about 300 ml of water, just enough to slake your thirst, with minimum effort and waste. Just bit off one corner of the pouch and pour into your mouth.

2. Distance Drinking. Indians rarely put their lips to a glass or bottle. They've learned to drink water from a distance, by actually pouring it into their mouths. They can drink while they pour (a skill that I have not yet mastered). Luckily, burping is culturally accepted, because this act caused the drinker to swallow lots of air. Still, by not putting lips on the containers, sharing is much more possible. In addition, once I finish my water, I can put my glass back without washing it. Less water and effort wasted.

3. Mobile Covers. India is dusty. Really really dusty. And mobile phones can get seriously messed up and damaged if the dust gets into them. So, most phones come with rubber covers that fit perfectly. And most people gladly use them. They may not look great, but they save your phone.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Sapan,

Gujus don't smoke as much as Mallus but they do eat/chew Paan and Maava with tobacco, probably worse than smoking a filtered cigarette.

Thanks for all the lovely pictures. Haven't met Prayag, Didi, Kamaleshbhai, Manjufai, Minaben, and Maitri in a very long time. So it was really nice to see their pictures right here on your blog.

- Chintan