Hampi...Finally!

Let me start this by saying that every time I come to India, I'm coming to Hampi. It's as simple as that. I originally planned to only be here for three days. That became seven. And this happens to about half the people who visit. It's that kind of place.

Hampi was the capital of the Vijayanagar Empire, one of the largest and most powerful Hindu empires in Indian history. It reached it's height by the 1500s, right before it was brought down by a coalition of Deccan kingdoms. Okay, no more history. The first thing you see when you arrive at the Hampi Bazaar is the amazingly imposing Virupaksha Temple. The details are amazing. It's beautiful because it wholly dominates the skyline. The picture above was taken from Hemakuta Hill, which is dotted with ruins and is a favorite for watching the sunset. Yes, sunset watching is the most important aspect of being in Hampi. You always try to find the best place to sit back and relax. Thrice I saw the sun go down from Hemakuta, once from on top of Matanga Hill, and once from a boulder in the middle of Tungabhadra River. Last night, I was chatting with a friend, so I didn't get to see the sun go down. Oh well.

Of course, Hampi is nothing without all it's ruins. But what are also great are the boulders. They are the biggest I had ever seen. This is a climber's paradise, and the boulders provide plenty of challenges. The boulders are so great, you often see people (including myself) just sitting and staring at them for quite some time.

Still, it's all about the ruins. There are three main areas here toexplore. The first is the Sacred Center, which includes Virupaksha, Hemakuta, Matanga, the monoliths, and all surrounding ruins. The above picture comes from the Krishna Temple in the Sacred Center. The second is the Royal Center, which includes the Noble Quarters, the Islamic Quarters, the Zanana Complex, and other areas. The picture below comes from there. The third generally encompasses the wide area covering the Vitthala Temple, the Achyutaraya Temple, the Hanuman Temple Hill, and Anegondi. The picture of the chariot down below is at the Vitthala Temple. Of course, these names probably mean nothing to you, but here, they are everything.

By the first two days, I was done with sightseeing. I had walked EVERYWHERE (except to the Hanuman Temple and Anegondi, which are both across the river), and I was exhausted. The first day, I walked probably around eight kilometers. The second day, probably around 12. But the walking was the best part. Many people rented bicycles and motorcycles. I chose to walk because it allowed me to go to places that others couldn't get to. And often times, I'd be walking in the desert or through a banana plantation, and I couldn't see another person around in any direction. These times were the best. After the sun would go down, I'd spend the evening looking at shops, talking with people, finding a nice place to eat, watching a movie at one of the restaurants, or going back to my guest house and playing backgammon with my neighbors, Jean-Baptiste and Melanie.

One day, I was planning to visit the Achyutaraya Temple, then walk down to the Royal Center. I ended up climbing the nearby Matanga Hill. And then I stayed up there for three hours, just chilling and chatting with my new friends Ana and Sergio, as well as the "banana cake boy" Noori. It was at that moment when I realized the truth about Hampi. Screw the sightseeing. Welcome the relaxing. So, every now and then, I'd go for a nice walk to see the sights, but I found much more pleasure in doing absolutely nothing. I found a favorite spot by the Ghats, where I could watch the women do laundry, the men fill water jugs, and the children go for a swim. I spent three entire afternoons there. And it was amazing. Other times, I'd go to a high place, like Matanga Hill (950 steps to get to the top), and marvel at the view of the desert, the boulders, and the banana plantations. The scenic contrasts in Hampi are astounding.

Beside the four Europeans (two from France, two from Spain) I mentioned earlier, I also met another couple, Angela from the UK and Josef from France, as well as Shay from Israel, and Nadia from Scotland. And these are only those people whose names I know. I also now know many of the shopkeepers, and am constantly greeted by first name as I walk down the street. It's a nice feeling. I've witnessed many wedding processions that fill the streets with the sounds of trumpets and drums. I think Sejal and Joe, Vijay and Crissy, and Bryce and Purvi should all have processions that take up entire streets with dancing and general merriment. I've seen an elephant lead a religious procession, a scruffy little puppy go up against a cow, two wild mongoose (or is that mongooses, or perhaps mongeese?), and the stars amidst numerous city blackouts. I had a guy try to sell me marijuana...because apparently I bought some from him the day before. I got lost in bramble and had to shimmy my way out, on my stomach, from underneath the thorns. I experienced the sickness and death of my guest house owner's father. I relearned how to play Backgammon, just to realize that I suck at it. I got hounded by a boy named Karan who is now calling me his "bhaiyya," which means "brother." I faced my fear of heights as I scaled some large boulders to get to the top of Matanga hill when I couldn't find the stairs. A rode on a motorcycle with a guy who had never driven a motorcycle before...thankfully we went slowly. I met a girl who is writing a book on how culture and religion affect a society's interation with the environment...I may contribute a bit to that work. I slipped and fell twice in one day, hurting my left arm something fierce. I learned that my chappals (sandals) suck on hills, so now I have Indian feet...I climb up and down things barefoot. I had a lesson in how to play the jhamba drum, which may be more my style than the tabla. I relaxed so much that I don't want to leave and hit the busy tumult of Bangalore and Chennai. Oh well, all good things must come to an end.

But that doesn't mean I'm staying away from Hampi forever. Next time I'm in India, even though this place is out of the way, I'm coming here for a few days. Hampi is just that kind of place.